Valley of the Shepherds
Friday 9th March
Mega packing mission this morning making sure the beer was safely wrapped in mountains of clothes – I only had two bottles but my rucksack still weighed a ton. Sanjo took us by shakara after a lot of farewells to Dal Gate where I rather undignifiedly managed to scramble onto the jetty – only about 25 rickshaw drivers and shakara men watching this spectacle.
Had to wait quite a while for the jeep to Anantnag to fill up – I was quite calm to say I was in the front passenger seat, no seat belt and facing a cracked windscreen as we sped along the roads. Should be a video here – bit of a test to see if it works but this was travelling on the way to Anantnag.
Passed by the huge military camp at Bahimbargh (sp) on the outskirts of Srinagar – it did unnerve me a little all the guns, barbed wire and armoured carriers with gun posts on the top – but I didn’t see the soldiers dealing with any trouble – all they seemed to do was just stand there guarding their posts. It was back through the saffron fields at Pampore – wasn’t the season at the time and then a town called Sangam which is where they make cricket bats – all along the roadside there are miles of bats stacked up high as Kasmiri willow is second only to English willow in the manufacture of bats.Back in Anantnag had some fun climbing on to the roof of the jeep to retrieve the bags as I’d padlocked them up there and then it was off to find some food – it was quite difficult as Anantnag is a muslim town and me being vegetarian so we ended up at a really nice restaurant in the Wasir Bagh Park where I succumbed to my western cravings and had a sort of mushroom omelette and chips. Afterwards we went for a walk round the park - apparently it is the only place in town where couples can go without being hassled by the police – a thing that happens quite a lot in India if they aren’t married.
Above videos on the road to Pahalgam - after dropping off the guy with the twigs at his village.
Then it was back in another jeep ride to Pahalgam about 50k’s up the road which is known as the village of the Shepherds and is Kashmir’s premier summer resort. It is situated at the confluence of the Sheshnog and Lidder streams and is the starting point for the pilgrimage to the Shri Amarnath cave - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amarnath - as with other Hindu shrines in Kashmir security was a higher due to the threat of terrorism and we had to pass through a police checkpoint to get into town.
Had another audience when I climbed up onto the jeep roof again – it was quite funny as I looked up and there was about 15 guys just staring at me – I just gave them a big grin and went back to untangling the bags – Nazir chose this time to go a-wandering so I was left a bit like a lemon sat on the roof till one of the guys gave me a hand getting the bags down.
Quick chai stop before catching the bus to Aru, which is about 12k’s up the road at the end of the valley. The bus was so packed (what’s new) as I think school had just finished that many of the kids were sitting on the roof – the road was only single track and twisted and turned as it climbed up to Aru which at 9 and a half thousand feet is at the foot of some amazing mountains and surrounded by pine trees.
The Rohilla Guesthouse where I was staying hadn’t opened for the season but my room was really sorted with a brilliant view down the valley from my bed. Beers safely unpacked and later on we shared one with Mac the guesthouse owner. Lovely fire in the kitchen, which was a relief as it was really cold and best of all a pot bellied fire in my room, which was really toasty.
Saturday 10th March
The weather wasn’t the greatest today but you could still see the tops of the mountains, which were covered in snow. Toast and marmite for breakfast before setting out to climb a smallish mountain about 4k’s away – I did at times forget I was in India and that there are really wild animals hanging about – we’d only just started walking when Nazir spotted a raccoon like animal which sort of nudged my brain to ask what over lovelies might be lurking about – bit alarmed by the mention of tigers and bears – “okay but have you ever seen one” “No” “well that’s okay then – be a bit unlucky if we do the double today!”
It was quite a steep climb through snow, streams and pine trees – there were some gypsies building a house of wood and mud further up the slope – even in this remote place the little kids were shouting baksheesh in my direction. Really stunning views down the valley and on to the surrounding mountains where you could see evidence of recent avalanches. As we climbed higher the weather started closing in – not quite blizzard but eventually you couldn’t see the tops of the mountains. It was quite difficult to walk as the snow was coming up to my knees when I sunk down into it – after a while it had become so bad we decided to head back down after taking a few photos. Naturally nearing the bottom the weather started to clear – even the sun was trying to put in an appearance.
On the mountain above Aru in a blizzard - finally sussed it!!!!
Back in the kitchen hogged the open fire trying to thaw my feet out and dry my soaking socks – suitably warmed up we headed next door to Mac’s family home – it was really busy with people coming in and out – all the family live together grandparents, brothers and their wives and numerous children. Everyone was sat on the floor (totally sorted as I am a floor sitter at home!) and a hubba bubba pipe was being passed around – sometimes I did find it hard in these kind of situations as I couldn’t understand the language – but on occasions I could pick up a little usually when the topic of conversation was about mobile phones which everyone seemed to have. The guy next to me tried to teach me some Kashmiri – all roughly along the lines that Pahalgam is a very beautiful place for tourists. Mac’s wife Rafeeka brewed me up some Kashmiri tea and then Bisma her little girl who was about three became fascinated with my camera and I ended up taking loads of photos of everyone. I was talking to Razia who I think was the daughter of Gulam the oldest brother – I think she was about 13 and her English was far better than my Kashmiri – which isn’t difficult.Evening was spent in the little room next to the kitchen listening to Kashmiri music – the electric only came on for a couple of hours – Mac tried to explain the different types of Kashmiri music and played the Noot a Kashmiri drum which is basically an earthen pot made from mud, then fired and painted but it made a lovely sound.
It did feel so remote as the road went no further – just mountains ahead and very difficult to get a mobile signal - village shop had run out of ciggies (no Diet Coke and hair conditioner either – but I was being hopeful with that one!!) and limited electricity – but you could still eat well, stay warm and the countryside so beautiful – the only sounds you heard were the children playing, dogs barking and the call to prayer – was so so nice to be way from the outside world and the madness there for a few days.
Sunday 11th March
Iffy weather again this morning – clouds hovering above the mountainsides. Rafi (Gulam’s son) made me some breakfast of chai, toast and marmite before we set off to walk down the valley to Pahalgam.
The road was really quiet and Nazir explained about the terrorists that used to be here in the valley. Just outside Aru there is a small army camp which is occupied in the summer to protect tourists but empty at the moment as I am the only one mad enough to come up here this time of year. Apparently in the beginning the villagers were quite willing to offer help but this all changed when the foreign freedom fighters showed up as sometimes they were quite into taking Kashmiri women as wives by the use of force. Nazir said an independent Kashmir would be difficult as they rely on so much food from the Punjab – another thing I have noticed about Kashmiri's is that quite a few are so fair skinned that you could take them as Europeans – I’ve read about this before I think in Dervla Murphy’s book “Full Tilt” when she cycles from London to Kathmandu.
The walk itself was really nice as it was mainly downhill apart from when we wandered down to look at an avalanche – ended up crawling back up the hill, as the path seemed to just disappear. Strangely my legs were aching when we eventually reached Pahalgam, which was really quiet as it was a Sunday – this always confuses me when I’m not in Christian country but apparently they adopt the European way of shop opening times. Lunch in a freezing cold hotel – the waiter (loose sense of the word) was a bit cheeky in that he was quite unwilling to give me all my change as he wanted a tip – I did point out that generally you gave the customer the change and then they decided on the tip which did fall a bit on deaf ears.
Quick scout round for rooms for later in the week – found a really nice room with a balcony, bath, 24 hour hot water and generator – funny how certain things become really important – Nazir was well chuffed with the TV as Pakistan were to play their first World Cup match later on in the week. Bus back to Aru after stocking up on chocolate and ciggies – and then beeline for the fire – one thing I did notice was that the mountain air made me ever so sleepy.
Pancakes for tea but far too many but a welcome change from rice – Nazir went up to the big house to have his as they were cooking meat up there. I stayed behind in the little room off the kitchen with my kangri listening to Kashmiri Sufi music and talking to Rafi. I was a little confused with the Indian school system as Rafi said he was still at school studying politics (he looked about 23/24-but was actually only 19) – he said when he left he wanted to do something that he would be remembered for in a political sense.
The snow started to fall this evening – and we listened to more music before the power went – come 5pm when the electric hits town it did turn into a mad scramble to get phones and camera’s charged and my hair straightened – funny how you take stuff like that for granted. It made me laugh as my room was so cosy with the wood burning fire - this would have never been allowed in a hotel room back home because of Health and Safety – beer by candlelight – apparently Mac thought I was drunk on one tiny glass of weak Falcon beer – not too keen on the Falcon much prefer Godfather but there wasn’t a lot of choice in the offy.
Unfortunately at the moment can't get the videos to play will have another look when I get back from Glasto - layout coolish but not working but where there's a will there's a way - any suggestions gratefully received - edit 07/07/07 (wow what a day !!) think I've sussed it not quite sure how - bed calls as its late - apologies for the sound sounds like cows chewing grass but it's me chewing gum as I was hungry (TMI I think there) - hopefully photos tomorrow............
Happy Solstice for tomorrow morning everyone.
posted by aliceinw67 at 7:46 AM
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