Lands End ,Varkala and back to Delhi

Wednesday 14th February

The hotel guy was really anxious for me to get out out of my room - banging on my door on the dot of nine o'clock. Rickshaw up to the station - I must really need my glasses some of the time as I failed to see the footbridge and ended up walking the full length of the platform and then crossing gingerly over the tracks. The train from Bangalore was about an hour late - but it doesn't really bother me all this waiting around as I just tend to drift off into my own little world.

Was a little cramped in the carriage - but eventually I managed to climb up into an upper side bunk - bit conscious of being the cabaret as there wasn't a ladder and my upper arm strength isn't the greatest. Just crashed out for the rest of the afternoon as it was so hot - the train by the time we reached Trivandirum was quite empty and the last two hours down to Kanniyakumari were spent speeding through palm trees with some amazing mountains in the background - think they were the far end of the Western Ghats.

I seemed to cracked arriving - even though I did want a rickshaw the clamor was too much - so I just walked through without uttering a word - the same with the hotel touts though one did follow me all the way to the hotel. Got a really nice room at the Hotel Maadhini with a balcony overlooking the sea. There was a bar but it didn't look too enticing - just a really dark room with no windows - couldn't understand why the restaurant wouldn't serve me a beer as it was only next door.

Thursday 15th February

Strange dreams and up for sunrise but unfortunately my room wasn't facing it - thought it was a bit too good to be true!!! Sorted out my train ticket for Varkala after queuing in the wrong queue for twenty minutes and then found a tailor as my clothes were so well worn they were falling to pieces.

Then it was off to find the southernmost point of India - the thing is you know it's going to be a bit on the crapside (thinking of Lands End here) and it didn't disappoint as it was just full of people selling sea shells which is rather useless when you're looking for envelopes and hair conditioner - the actual southernmost bit is just full of litter and smells like a toilet - no signpost saying 3742km to Jammu Tawi (well I wasn't really expecting it) - so photo taken in a mega wind which I think had come up from Antarctica.

Back to the hotel for my two bottles of beer I had managed to procure by queuing up with the other alcofrolics and pleasant chill on my balcony - I find here as it's an Indian resort you do behave a little differently in dress and how you are on the street.

Friday 16th February

Missed sunrise again - well I stuck my head out of the door for a little gaze at dawn. Walked up to the station much to the amusement of the rickshaw drivers - not being tight but just trying to keep fit and sometimes it is less hassle. It could be fair to say I was a little warm when I arrived - but I easily found the Bangalore train - I love it when there are only two platforms no abounding confusion.

Once more in sleeper class which I love - open windows which plays havoc with my hair - but it's so full of life at times. This whole family wanted their photo taken with me - video included - which was nice although at one point I did have a small baby plonked on my knee which I always get nervy about as one I wasn't sure if it had a nappy on and two I'm always convinced I'm going to drop them.

Time went really quick as it always does - hard bargaining with Mr Rickshaw man when I arrived in Varkala - him going correct price and me saying tourists never pay correct price. He dropped at a really posh gaff but they were really vague about whether they had a room so I went over the road and found another place with a pool - bit of luxury for a change.

Finally found the cliff path - it was a lot busier than I thought it would be - lots of Western tourists in Indian clothes that you know they won't wear at home - but it is nice not to be the odd one out for a change - the looks I get in Asda and on the 18A bus back home make India pale into insignificance for staring sometimes. Had my toenails rather butchered in the Mona Lisa beauty parlour - the woman in charge Vicki was real anxious to show me her diplomas then disappeared leaving this really nice lady to sort out my feet - I think she had been to the same beauty school as the girl who cut my hair the way she hacked away at my poor nails!!!!

Sunset was great - sat on the cliff top having a beer with Bob Dylan playing in the background. Bumped into Alan (the guy I met on the backwater trip) again - I think he was an old hippy as he told me he was going to Kovalam to say goodbye to it - from what I've heard its now a bit chavsville central which is a shame. Finished off at this other bar which played the Beatles post 67 listening to a rather inane conversation between a posh English bloke and a French guy - I gleaned from this that's its totally illegal to eat swans and puffins (!!) in Britain - it then descended into Big Brother talk - sometimes people watching is really interesting.

The only problem with my hotel was that it was set back from the cliff - and my route back involved finding a tiny little alleyway under a Kathakali sign - not easy as all the shops looked the same - I could see why alcohol was allegedly banned - too many people falling over the cliff as the railings are a little on the random side.

Saturday 17th February

Woken up in the morning by this really scrawny cat mewing and some rather loud Americans ordering a banquet for breakfast. Got talking to a couple Peter and Melanie from Kidderminster - they had been there for six weeks in just Kerala and Goa but were interested in going up north so I told them not to miss Jodhpur.

I found Varkala a bit pricey - they were really tight in the bookshop giving me back less than a pound for each of my books which I swapped for an Adrian Mole which was one that I hadn't read - and which by a bit of a coincidence had a thing about swans in it - being the princess of trivia I knew the guy wasn't totally right last night as the Queen doesn't own all the swans just the unmarked mute ones.

So spent a lazy afternoon lazing on the beach before it clouded over and spots of rain were felt. Started scratting again on my feet - lots of ants in my room - dinner on the cliff but the music wasn't as great and no real weird conversations to listen in on. Bumped into Peter and Melanie so we had a couple of beers - a group of people who my grandparents would have described as "lovely girls and boys - a credit to their family" were sharing a chillum on the next table. It was a bit late to go traipsing through the lanes so I shared a rickshaw back with Peter and Melanie and a rather drunk and dishevelled woman with a bad haircut who was staying at the Taj Retreat - really really posh gaff - its a number 9 pricewise in my guidebook whereas I hover around the 2 to 3 mark - I just can't get overexcited about hotel rooms.

Sunday 18th February

Just lost myself in books today - chilled around the swimming pool in the afternoon - and then headed down to the beach where I got chatting to an Italian guy called Jean Charles from near Milan - we ended up talking in French as his English wasn't two good and my Italian consists of "Quanta Costa" (how much) and Bella Bella (learnt that one from watching Gregory's Girl far too many times!) . Anyway was a cool night but I've got to say it can be a bit taxing on the brain speaking for that length of time in a foreign language - Jean Charles walked me back which I was grateful for - I could have managed it on my own but I am always conscious and looking behind me all the time.

Monday 19th February

Another lost day in books - and then down to the beach where we had some thunder. Bit of a strange evening in a restaurant listening to Mexican music which to me sounds all wrong here - like the dayglo palms which I'm not too keen on.

Tuesday 20th February

Another lazy day in Paradise - I was meaning to do some shopping but it was really too hot to do anything. Picked up a leaflet about a film called 5 Days in Varkala - a rather earnest old hippy was explaining about it to this woman - the gist being that the governments of the world aren't telling us everything and the world come to an end sometime soon - but if you go to this canal in Tamil Nadu on the day of destruction you'll be totally sorted. Was tempted to go and see it as sometimes I do think these people do have a point - well I've never totally dismissed the idea that George Bush and the Royal family are lizards - there's definately something there when you look at them.

Wednesday 21st February

Quick dash to the bookshop to swap one of books for the train journey. Wasn't really looking forward to spending 48 hours on the train. Taxi up to the station and it did kinda arrive on time but I managed to get in the wrong carriage so it was a very long walk through the train. I was really lucky as I managed to get a sort of compartment on my own - but the guy never came round to take my dinner order so by 8 o'clock I could have eaten a scabby horse - I'm always a bit nervy about jumping off as you never know how long they are going to stop for - but had to go for it and managed to grab a very cold veggie biryani which I wolfed down with my fingers.

Thursday 22nd February

A bit of a restless night as on trains I have to sleep with my little bag tied to my waist which isn't too comfy. Woke up in the morning in Andhra Pradesh which is the other side of the country to Kerala - not as many palms and as we traveled further up north the countryside returned more to trees and paddy fields. Breakfast was an omelete and something resembling a doughnut with kiddy sick on it. The journey itself wasn't too boring - lunch turned up far too early so I wasn't hungry and then got really mad in the the afternoon as I needed a cigarette and some guy who snored came and put the bed down opposite me and then fell asleep - I was really determined he wasn't going to be staying the night. Got shot of him eventually - him and his mate were chatting and starting to inch further down the bed - in the end I just said I wanted to shut the curtains - to which they said okay - "Right - you two that side, me this side" they got my drift eventually and shuffled off to their rightful bunks. Really good nights sleep though the train was rocking a bit and I have been a bit panicky about rail crashes after 67 people were killed earlier on the week in a bomb explosion on a train up north.

Friday 23rd February

Woke up in the morning in Madhya Pradesh which is state next to Rajastan and Gujarat - my temper was much improved as I found some nicotine patches in my purse. Was really pleased to have managed to keep the compartment pretty much to myself as I only saw one other woman in the whole carriage. Had a bit of a do with a guy staring at me in Agra station - sometimes it really does get to you and I was after forty six hours on the train starting to feel a little caged in. Had another bloke move in and out - must have been the evil looks I was giving - but I really don't see why I should have to put up with the belching and snoring of some random bloke - got to say I did feel quite Queen of Shebaish behind my curtains.

Arrived in Delhi and quickly found a room at the Hotel Vivek - I don't think the guy who showed me the room got many people saying wow to his bathrooms - I must be getting a bit sad when I get overexcited at the sight of a new shower head - but it was just so much better than the place I first stayed in.

Ended up down my old haunt the Metropolis sharing a beer with a Welsh guy Shaun from Ruthin - there was this totally crazy middle class tour group on the next table to us - to be honest I've never quite seen anything like what this one woman had on and her hubby wasn't much better - she was wearing the most outlandish flowery hat (a bit like those swimming caps with huge flowers on) and three or four rings on every finger - very hard to describe but think pantomime dame and you're getting there - hubby was in aquamarine slacks - I know it sounds horrible getting at people for what they wear but you had to see it and they actually went waltzing off down the main street in Pahargaj dressed like that. Me and Shaun were desperately trying to keep straight faces - would have made a great photo but you just couldn't. Shaun had only been there a couple of days - his travel buddy had let him down last week saying he wasn't coming so he had unwillingly been left on his own - he let me me know all the news from home which amounted to Britney Spears shaving her hair off and checking into rehab (I know about Kylie and Jade Goody) - so still not missed much. Fairly early night as yet another train journey in the morning......

Into the land of coconuts

Saturday 10 February

The train finally pulled in at one in the morning - there had been some English lads on the station whose sole topic of conversation seemed to be about puking and poo - not really sure why they had come to India. Naturally I was put in a compartment with them - one was lugging a guitar round with him and from what I gathered only knew a couple of songs - why to me I always think the same??? Not a bad nights sleep - I quite like sleeper class (which is about No 4 in level of comfort) as you get open windows but it is noisy. At around 5 in the morning we hit a town which in my bleary state thought was called Kangeroo (it's not far off) but it signalled the start of the chai wallers coming round every 30 seconds.

The "Poo" boys got off at Calicut in a bit of a panic with their numerous carrier bags as they didn't know where they were so I could then stretch out a bit. It did get really hot and I started to loll which can be really disorientating but we must have made up some time as we pulled into Eranakulum Junction just after two - had quite a calm time with the rickshaw guys as I just ignored them and started to walk.

So tired that I checked into the first hotel - the Sapphire just up the road from the main jetty. I was going to move asap but it had some sorted channels on the TV so I thought I'll stay. Went to the tourist info and booked a backwater tour - also asked where the nearest offy was so the guy drew me a map - when I eventually found the place there were about 50 guys queued outside in various staes of alcohol withdrawal - realised I would be more stared at here so I went into a bar - it was like the Black Hole of Calcutta, stunk of spirits and full of men - it was so dark I don't think I was noticed but I decided I wouldn't be making a habit of it - didn't quite have a chilled ambiance.

Had to get a bit bolshie with one guy who followed me down the street - just didn't believe he would have been as keen to show me the sights of Ernakulum if I had been some strapping bloke!!!

Sunday 11th February

Bit of a lie in before heading out to catch the ferry to Fort Cochin - was the last one on as I nearly missed it as the guys in the coffee house seemed to have two speeds slow and stop. It was quite different over the water from the hustle and bustle of Ernakulum - a more sedate way of life.

Headed over to the Chinese fishing nets at the north end of the island and had a coke whilst watching the guys bring up the the nets. It was quite fascinating watching them operate them with weights and ropes but I did notice they didn't seem to catch very much.

Then a wander down the sea wall and into the town - it felt quite Southern European to me - not at all like India - very quaint and quiet. My hair by this time was starting to annoy me - it gets to this stage eventually "the point of no return" so I called into a hairdressers and the young girl said she could do it for a pound - sorted. I'm not quite sure if she was trained as the way she cut my hair it was like she was using a pair of gardening shears - but I've had worse when I've been to a proper stylist and had to pay 25 times as much.

Realised hadn't brought my map so had no idea where I was heading - well I was trying to find Jew town and the Synagogue it was further than I realised but nice all the same wandering through a more Indian part of the island. Jew town was very touristy and couldn't take any photos in the synagogue - think it was the first synagogue I've ever been in. Couple of beers at the Seagull hotel which was on the waterfront - the bar itself was akin to the place last night so I sat in the family restaurant and chatted to this English guy whose girlfriend was joinging him in a month.

Ferry back to Ernakulum which dropped me at a completely different place but I'm always a bit nervy about staying on as you can never be too sure where they will take you next. Was only intending to go out for crisps but I bumped into Sunil (I'd met him briefly yesterday) who said did I want to go to a bar - was a bit dubious but agreed as one it was only round the corner and two he had a really nice Enfield motorbike. I knew he was hustling a bit and very into showing me the cannabis fields in Munnar but it was a good night as we met up with his friend Paul and a Danish girl Erin who was having issues with her travel buddy.

Monday 12th February

Regretted the excess as I was a real sleepyhead - I'm always the same when I go on these organised tours. There was one other loner on the trip - Alan from Bristol who took my usual place as being singled out for special treatment - always happens. We drove to about 30k's north where the backwaters begin at a place called "Touristland" and then were herded onto a canoe for a cruise on the small canals. It was so pretty - lush green palms and colourful birds flew around us.

Stopped to watch some locals weaving mats and spinning coir (rope) - then it was back to Touristland (no Coca Cola) for dinner which was served on banana leafs but no spoons - it wasn't too bad eating with your fingers and I didn't get as muchdown my front as I thought I would but I don't think I'll be taking it up permanently.

Was sat with a young French couple Shirley (who named after Shirley Maclaine) and Eric who were here for two weeks - they had a pretty crazy itinary as they had to be back in Mumbai by next Tuesday. I've been a bit iffy about taking French ever since I went to Paris and got "quoi'd" a lot but Shirley said I was quite easy to understand and I got to help her with her English which she said she needed to improve.

In the afternoon it was time for a trip on a bigger boat on the river - stopped at a spice place and then headed out onto this huge lake where every August they hold this snake boat race (basically it's a real long boat). Did feel sleepy but it was just so nice watching the world go by on the banks of the river.

All too soon it was time to go back to Ernakulam - totally knackered my feet were giving me real problems with loads of small bites - think its fleas agian.

Tuesday 13th February

Lost myself in books in the morning but then had to go out and sort out my train ticket to Kanniyakumari - nearly got hit on the head by a palm branch - there was a loud crack behind me and a bit of a whoosh behind my head - a second earlier and it would have had me.

Quite easy at the train station - though I was a little confused as I managed to get an unreserved sleeper ticket which I wasn't sure of as I hadn't bought one before but the guy said the conductor would sort me out with a seat on the train.

Managed to find my way back through the streets with help of a dead cat landmark and then decided to do a little shopping. I felt like a complete scruff (my blouse had got tye died with my trousers) as I walked into the biggest sari shop in the world. The shopgirls were really nice and didn't bat an eyelid at my dishevelled state - at one point I had six of them trying to serve me. I never shop well for clothes and did feel like running out (something I do quite a lot at home) but I stuck with it and ended up with a really nice salwar chemise which they had altered to fit me. It was quite funny waiting for the tailor to make the alterations as all the girls crowded round and were asking me questions especially one called Jancy who got her English mixed up and introduced her brother as her daughter - he was really embarassed. It is really complicated buying stuff in India as I had to pay at one counter and then Matilda who had originally served me took me down to another counter where I was given what I had bought in a very fancy bag - they even had a doorman opening the door for me on my way out (look I'm not used to such things when I go shopping - so it is a novelty for me!!!)

Couldn't get into my blog as the connection was really bad - bit frustrating as I hate getting behind with it. Dinner across the road - a very dodgy biryani where I had to pick out all the peas as they were like little bullets.

Gokarna photos

View of Gokarna town beach
Sunset Kutle Beach

Town Beach

Om Beach

Town Beach

Main Street Gokarna

Kutle Beach

Violinist on the rocks - Kutle Beach

Paradise Beach

Monday 5th February

Up at 9 as the early bird catches the worm roomwise - ie I wanted a decent place - couldn't believe that there were actually tourists staying in what for me was a grothole - it was the floaters in the toilet that finally did it. Got lost trying to find the path to Kutle Beach and it was a bit of a hike but when I saw it I loved it - a bit like Palolem was 8 years ago - just a few shack cafes and amazingly I managed to find a room - really big with electric, a bed and a chair - really simple but I really liked it. Said to the guy I would be back in an hour and yes I was the only one mad enough to hike over the hill with my rucksack - about a 2k walk in the hot midday sun - did get some strange comments.

Straight down to the beach for a swim - it was really quiet, no sunbeds and just the odd pineapple and drum seller - no dayglo palms and best of all no trance music belting out. Sunset was amazing it was just like it melted into the sea but because my camera isn't that great I can't really bring it across in the photos.

Was really happy as I didn't feel the oldest one on the beach - people were painting, playing guitars and drums - I felt it wasn't about image it's something to believe in not do for six months and then join the materialistic world - so spend a sorted evening sat in a bar listening to Bob Marley and Pink Floyd. The only downside being I now can't get a mobile signal so I am back to wandering on hilltops dowsing for my phone to come to life.

Tuesday 6th February

Boy was I tired today so slept till 10 o'clock and woke up with a stiff neck as the bed is a little on the hard side and half the mossie net fell down in the night. Went over to town in the morning to sort out my train ticket to Cochin - had to go to an agency as the train station is way out of town - it was a bit of a pain in the butt train as it leaves at 20 past midnight from a place called Kumta which is about an hour away - one of the downsides of travelling but it doesn't bother me that much as I am such a daydreamer that times passes really quickly.

Wandered down to town beach which was rather litter strewn so I was glad I decided to head over the hills. Neck was giving me some gyp (my excuse and I'm sticking to it) so I found a really good massage place and had a head, neck and shoulder one - the lady stuck all this oil in my hair which to be honest did wonders to it - not counting that my neck felt a lot better.

Back to the beach for a chill and a swim and although sunset wasn't as great - it was really nice and everyone comes out and sits for it - some more enthusiastically than others.

Wednesday 7th February

Bad nights sleep - well I got a bang off the power point as I groped for the light switch in the middle of the night - feet were itching as well, I suppose I have done really well to last this long without suffering really badly from bites - then I woke up in a panic as I couldn't figure out where I was - hate that feeling.

Took a walk over to Om Beach but didn't feel too good - stomach a bit icky - the path was a case of following white arrows on the ground which made me smile as it reminded me of the running club handicaps I do at home - the last one I did before I left was a total nightmare ended up running 7 miles instead of the usual 4 as I failed to see the arrows.

Felt a little bit better after coke and some toast - and then spent the afternoon just lazing on the beach - the waves weren't as great as Kutle but I seemed to finally have got a tan. Back over on Kutle curled up on my bed when I got back was a little black and white cat - it was a real sod to move as it seemd to think I wanted to play - think it got in through the window.

The candidate for the most bored/useless member of staff at the place I was staying at had to be the guy in the internet cafe - I asked him how much to ring the UK "on meter" he replied - thought I'm not falling for that again " well roughly" - "don't know (and don't care)" - so off I toddled to find someone who did care - it can frustrate you at times.

Thursday 8th February

Woke up to find I had fleas in the room - prime suspect was the cat - and I seemd to have lost my insect repellant which was last seen in Hampi. So my mission today was to find some calamine and try out this ayuvedic treatment called Siro Dhara which was supposed to relieve stress and unage you - not totally convinced as I did get a bad back from lying on the wooden bed as two ladies dribbled oil over my forehead.

Did wonders for hair but I was covered in the stuff so I did look a strange sight as I sat on the hill trying to ring home to sort out my house insurance - don't think I endeared myself to Katie on the other end of the phone as she told me it was snowing so I told her I was sat on a hill overlooking a beautiful beach covered in ayuvedic oil in the blazing sun.

Afternoon spent on the beach again (its a hard life) trying to get the oil out of my hair - the waves are really strong and you can feel the current pulling you along that's why I never go out of my depth. It definately is the land of man in sarong and thong - but you can usually tell the British guys as they are nearly always in a pair of long shorts sometimes accompanied by a red stripe in the neck area.

Watched sunset from the cliff which was really beautiful and then wandered back to the beach where a guy was stood on a rock playing classical music on his violin - which was really beautiful as the waves crashed around him. Think there were some Israelis or Russians in the bar at night as they put on some really crap music - they had the room next to me and were pretty selfish as one of them was tuning his guitar till gone three in the morning.

Friday 9th February

Decided to keep the room till 5 so I could stay on the beach and have a shower. Lazy morning - there was only one guy who seemed to do any work in the restaurant - all the rest seem to lounge around - so sometimes it takes ages to get to served

Afternoon spent on the beach drinking coke before the mammoth trek over the hill - wasn't sure I would make it as the climb was quite steep but it was okay though sweat was poring off me when I arrived at the bus station. Wasn't convinced I had the right bus as the conductor only seemed to say yes but I got on and hoped for the best that it was going to Kumta about 30k's down the road. The driver was a bit of a maniac racing over the hills, overtaking on corners but we made it in one piece. Was a bit of a one horse town railway station - no canteen and the waiting room was shut - so sat outside with much staring from the rickshaw drivers and thought I've got five and a half hours wait for the train - lovely!!!!

Hampi photos part two

I've not put labels on these photos as they are just the countryside in and around Hampi - wow two nights in a row on a decent comp - should be able to get this more up to date now. Sometimes it is such a pain finding a comp that works. Now in Varkala a beach resort in Kerala be here till next Wednesday in a very sorted hotel with a swimming pool - and best of all room is not next to the kitchen as usually happens to me when I stay in a posh place. Varkala is really nice - can hear the waves crashing against the cliffs from where I am typing just need to watch my step walking back along the cliff path - no railings!!!!

Hampi photos part one

Finally found a computer that works - and its fast - shame I'm leaving tomorrow. So so hot I'm in Kanyakumari which is right at the southern tip of India - next stop if my geography is right would be Antarctica - so all roads are north from here...........

A mysterious place called Hampi

Thursday 1st February

Shouldn't have had the wine last night - was a bit of a sleepyhead getting to the station this morning - couldn't even be bothered to haggle with the rickshaw driver over the fare. Train was late setting off and naturally I got the seat on the side without the views. Goa was just so green - paddy fields and palm trees before we started climbing up into the hills of the Western Ghats. Crossed over the Dudhsagar Falls - the railway line splits them in two - it was really nice having the windows open but even then the heat made you feel so sleepy. So I slept fitfully in between watching the countryside whizz by.

I must have read the timetable wrong as I thought we would arrive at 2.00 - eventually pulled into Hospet at round about 5 to be met by a gaggle of overexcited rickshaw drivers - sorted out my ticket to Jammu though the guy behind the counter decided to clean his printer in between serving me and the couple in front. Rickshaw down to the station which was a bit much peoplewise as I think school had just finished. Maybe I was overbussed but the ride to Hampi was a little nightmarish (up there with the Newport to Chepstow bus first thing on a morning) screaming kids and jammed in like sardines - so much so the driver had to get off and help the conductor with the fares.

As I've said getting off the bus and finding my direction within 5 seconds is not one of my better moments - I really wish I could deal with it calmer - my problem being that I want to decide where to go and not where some guy wants me to go. Ended up at Ravis Rose after few choice words with guys hassling me - didn't really get a good look at the room as the electric went after 10 seconds but it seemed okay. Tea up on the roof - really tired so went back to the room when the power came back on - not very clean toiletwise (and you really don't want me to go into detail) - decided I would be moving in the morning as the room was right next to the family of the house - so endured a couple of hours of shouting, singing and a blaring TV.

Friday 2nd February

Woken at 7.00 am by the little people playing right by my door - it was the bouncing ball that finally did it for me and I can be a bit Victor Meldrew over such things. Forced myself out of bed and went next door and found a really nice room - a bit over my budget but hey it was so clean and nice I couldn't refuse.

Hampi is such a strange place - it has all these granite boulders scattered on hills dotted around - the window in my room just had a huge boulder in front of it - it felt a bit like Fred Flintstones "Bedrock" in places especially with the rickshaws whizzing round the streets.

Had to register with the police - which I was okay about but was a bit confused as to why I had to put down the make of my camera on the form. Then went off to visit a few temples - as Hampi was once the centre of the Vijayanagar empire - the ruins are spread over 26 square kilometers and it really is a surreal landscape with leafy banana fields in between the semi desert of the boulder strewn hills.

Went off boulder scrambling and thought I could see a path down the hill - so I slid down and then got a bit stuck as I couldn't get back up the way I came and going down which I had to do in the end involved lowering myself down by grabbing hold of clumps of grass praying that I wouldn't meet any snakes or fall down a hole. Came out a bit scratched and covered in bits of twig and bush as per usual.

In the afternoon climbed Matanga Hill for a really amazing view - and then visited the Tiruvengalanath Temple (you can tell I've got my guide book with me today) - it does remind me a bit of Angkor Wat but the stone is a lot smoother and the engravings are not weathered as much.

Had a small issue in a cafe as I had a raging thirst as it was so hot - the waiter ignored me and went off to have some dinner so I went up and said could I have a Coca Cola - blank looks abounded and I was shown the toilet!! Tried a couple more times but I could see it wasn't happening - so said forget it and went and found somewhere a lot nicer with cushions and Caram.

Sunset on the hill outside town which is cool as it is the only place I can get a mobile signal - No beer in Hampi as it is a religious town and there has been a crackdown with local police so I couldn't suss any under the counter stuff - so satisfied my chocolate craving but not quite convinced it goes with pancake before heading back for a battle with the mossies.

Saturday 3rd February

I have been feeling a bit out of sorts for the last couple of days - I think the continual what is your name? what is your country? is getting to me as you know they are just going through the motions - and another thing is the giggling as I walk past (it's a good job I'm not too sensitive) but I still find it off putting. Coming down the mountain yesterday and this family started it before going into the 10 rupee, pen routine to which I said you know it isn't very nice to laugh at people - and then crazily it happened again today this time it was me falling off my bike which was so funny - I wasn't hurt as I managed to stop myself landing in a heap in the gravel - but there was sniggering behind me - I know I shouldn't let it get to me but sometimes it does.

As you've gathered I hired a pushbike today and went off into the countryside - Hampi is not totally flat and the bike had no gears so it was a bit like hard work at times. But it was really nice to get out from the town and into the palm trees - it just goes from really lush green to almost semi desert in an instant.

Cycled over to the Vitthala Temple which was about 10k - part of it down an extremely bumpy road. So happy when I found two ladies selling Diet Coke and the temple was pretty cool as well - my map sort of indicated a route back to Hampi - pretty soon the path had dissapppeared and I took to following tyre tracks - stopped for a lolly and was immediately surrounded by 30 kids who varied in their demands for 10 rupees to me giving them a backie on my bike - I'm not right stable on it at the best of times and me with two or three small children hanging off the back - someone was bound to get hurt. Managed to get mango ice lolly all down my nice clean white shirt - I don't know why food and my clothes love each other so much!

Totally lost the trail when I ended up on a temple roof - a couple of guys offered to help me with the bike but I could feel this turning into another paddy field adventure like last year in Laos. Tried another route which involved hoofing the bike into a temple but the way out was just way too steep. It was really frustrating as I could see Hampi but I gathered by now I would have to cycle all the way back round from where I came.

Just managed to get back for sunset - security guard was giving me funny looks on the hill where I was sat as I tried to get a mobile signal. Decided I was putting on weight so opted to start a soup diet - Tibetan noodle tonight but I don't know why there is such an obsession with dumping manky looking raw cabbage on the top.

Sunday 4th February

Had to be out of the room for 9.30 - I hate these early morning checkouts - Mr Kanyan was blethering on about something of which I had no know idea - I just wanted to pay him and put my bag in his lock up.

Spent the morning trying to update the blog - a young American came into the cafe first of all claiming the internet cable wasn't up to standard (they're all the same here mate - crap and paint drying slow) so he wanted a 10 rupee reduction in cost - apparently it was destiny changing e-mail he was sending and then he and the cafe owner proceeded to have a row about how long he had been in there - if he hadn't been such a twit I would have said something earlier but it was quite entertaining so I let it go for five minutes till frustrations were at a peak over 20p before intervening to settle the dispute.

Went down the river in the afternoon to investigate the dissappearing path of yesterday - it could have been done but I would have been the comedy entertainment - total time to walk the bit I missed 3 minutes.

Rickshaw into Hospet and then a long wait for the bus being hassled by beggars who were a bit unfortunate as the sadhu's had had all my coins in the afternoon. It could be said that the front of the bus looked like the photo - inside was a bit on the rough side especially if you were in a single bunk - no curtains (in the wash alledgedly) and windows that didn't shut. So I donned my pullover and stripey socks and tried my best to sleep - not sure if it was a full moon but the stars were out.

After a while I realised all the bus lights were out apart from the one above my bunk - I asked the drivers mate if it could be switched off but he refused not sure if he was getting his own back for my comment about the curtains - was severely pissed off about this light so went back to my bunk and tried banging it a few times to try and loosen the connection - no luck couldn't even unscrew the damn thing as it was probably the only thing I have come across here that was screwed down. In the end had to wrap my pullover round my head to try and get some sleep as we bounced down the road.

All of us going to Gokarna had to get off at quarter to three at a place called Ankola - I'd been talking to a German girl in Hospet who was going the same way as me but the driver didn't wake her up. I told him to check his list but he said no she wasn't to get off - so in the end I woke her up and yes she was going to Gokarna - things did get a bit confused after that as the guy made her get back on and said she had to change at Mapusa which is about 4 hours plus in the wrong direction - real crazy but she got back on for a rather scenic route to Gokarna.

The second bus turned up at about quarter to four and what a shed it was - all the rucksacks had to be loosely piled on the roof and not tied down - I kinda figured by this point we would be in Gokarna a lot earlier than promised - not the easiest time of day to find a room. I was lucky as there was an Indian and a Belgian who I think had met in an ashram who were looking - these guys were my lifeline as I didn't fancy wandering the streets on my own (where are the rickshaw guys when you need them!!) looking a place to stay. Just up from the bus station we found somewhere - 100 rupees (1 pound 20) for me but the room was a bit minging full of spiders, wet sheets and no mossie net - but you can't be too choosy and frankly at that time of morning I would have bunked in with Atilla the Hun.

Mumbai to Goa photos

Marine Drive Mumbai

Gateway to India - Mumbai

On the boat to Elephanta Island

Mumbai skyline

Sunset Arambol beach

Dusk on Arambol beach

Sunset Palolem Beach from my tree house

Palolem Beach
Tree House in Palolem
Margoa to Hospet train
Dudsager Falls from the Margoa to Hospet train

Beachey days in Goa

Friday 26th January (any missing letters add a h - dodgy button)

Today was Republic Day in India not that you would know here in Arambol. Another sunny day and it was so nice to wander down to the beach and have breakfast. Bought a sorted hat - I've found with haggling if you do it with a laugh and a smile you do get a better price - a very dour German was trying his best and getting nowhere - they start ridiculous, you start ridiculous and somewhere in the middle you will meet.

Spent the afternoon in the cove next door just chilling on the beach watching the parasenders (not sure if that is the right word) but you sit and float in the air. Tea on the beach where I met the fattest dog in India Zambo - the animals here especially the dogs are a lot chunkier than I have seen previously - though you still see a lot of three legged animals wandering around.

Saturday 27th January

Had a bit of a frustrating day today as my photos wouldn't download properly. Ended up in the afternoon down the beach and swimming in the sea which was really nice - the waves here are really strong but thats the way I like them. Got a bit iffy moodwise in the evening as this is a real couply place and full of really young people - I do tend to get these feelings in beachy places.

Another thing that started to bug me was the supermarkets rounding their prices up - it is just so petty and they ain't happy when I point out their suspect adding up - but it is just I like my coins to give away to more deserving people than shonky shopkeepers.

Sunday 28th January

I can see why people say Goa is not the real India - the people here are different - rarely do I get a Namaste and it is so full of the "young and the beautiful" and dudes on motorbikes looking cool. I do miss the madness of the markets - and feel you are definately a wallet here and I think I see the boredom in their eyes - I do understand that a bit having worked on a holiday camp for 7 years - holidaymakers can be a real pain at times.

That said the waves and the sunsets are great - but I do feel old here, think I happened upon the Israeli chillum scene at one point - very strange as I always think to get off your face in such a beautiful place. Bumped into Rick in Glastonbury Street - he was well happy having met two Swedish girls on the Mumbai bus who he was now hanging out with - said it felt more like a holiday now - they were heading to Anjuna in the morning which I knew wasn't really me - more trance music which was starting to do my head in.

Monday 29th January

Decided to head south today to Palolem - the guy at the guesthouse said did I want a taxi to the bus stop for 50 rupees - it was only round the corner so I walked. First bus I got to Mapusa was incredibly packed so had to stand which wasn't that easy as we careered round corners on the coast road - but I was happy to be moving again. The second bus was Mapusa to Panjim where I chatted to the guy next to me who had once worked for a Welshman called Les Price in Muscat - I think he was a bit upset that I didn't personally know old Les.

The next bus was Panjim to Margoa which was a bit of a pantomime ticketwise - it always amazes me how slow a queue can move when all you have to say is 1 ticket please and hand over 19 rupees but this is India. The last bus down to Palolem wasn't too bad apart from the sprawler next to me who kept leaning on me - a swift nudge now and again kind of sorted it out.

I was last in Palolem back in 1999 when it was a kinda one man and a dog place - a sleepy place with just a few Coco huts at the far end of the beach. Now it is wall to wall shacks and restaurants with dayglo fancy lights on the palm trees. I was met by Raul as I stumbled down the beach with my rucksack in the sweltering heat - showing me a picture of his Coco hut which looked nothing like the real thing but it had a decent lock, electric, sea view and because I'm cheeky I got a discount.

Sorted bar next door which was belting out Pink Floyd and Bobby Dylan - tea on the beach after going for a swim - the waves weren't as great as Arambol and there were so many English people there - got to say I am finding Goa a bit hard going on my own.

Tuesday 30th January

Today was a bit cloudy but unbelievably warm - bought a book - I am finding it hard to find ones that I really want to read as generally there are stacks of Michael Creighton, Dean Koontz and Stephen King (finding an SK that I haven't read is a bit needle/haystack) - so I settled for a murder mystery and headed off down to the far end of the beach where once long ago I had sat and ate coconuts and gave a hefty contribution to the village school.

I half expected the same note to be shoved under my nose again but it was nice not to be bothered by sarong and bracelet sellers. My fan base of 20-23 waiters got a new member Vijay from Himachal - he didn't endear himself at first by telling me a long and complicated story about donkeys, dogs and horses the moral being you were past it by 40 - to which I told him you can be 21 and old in mind and spirit and 40 and still young in how you are as a person but with the wisdom of your past - which to me is better but then again I would say that. Chilled night on the beach drinking cocktails, beer and watching the waves crash on to the beach.

Wednesday 31st January

Had a facial this morning as living on the beach does leave you feeling really grubby. I've found I have little time for people stating the bleeding obvious - "You're leaving" as I walked off the beach with my back on my back - after this had been said to me for about the third time I bit "No I'm just taking my rucksack for it's lunchtime walk round the village - it was getting a little restless" - wasn't asked again after that.

Got the wrong bus as there was a truck in the way so had to jump on the Margoa bus at Canacona which was just leaving - totally unbalanced with my rucksack on my back and no seats - it wasn't easy juggling a bottle of pop trying to get 17 rupees out of my bag as we twisted and turned up the hills. So easy to find a room in Margoa - no hassle from people offering to take me places - one of the calmest arrivals ever.

Taxi out to railway station where there was a communication failure in the ticket office - got chatting to an older English couple who were on a year long trip as we waited for the comps to come back on line - I did cause a bit of a backlog as he booked my Varkala to New Delhi ticket but wouldn't do the one to Jammu - even though I knew there was tourist quota availabilty he said I had to do that in Delhi .

Motorbike taxi back into town - so so hot - buying hair dye in a chemist was quite funny as the overstaffing in there was quite something - had to to go to three different people with my bit of paper before I was allowed to leave with said hair dye. Putting money on my mobile was a bit the same - repeating myself yes I have valedation and I know I only have 43 rupees left - got a bit convinced at one point they were texting a cousin in Lisbon before finally they did what I asked - just have to be patient and you get there in the end.

And even more Jodhpur and Udaipur photos

Umaid Bhawan Palace - Jodhpur

Meherangarh Fort
Just round the corner from Yogi Bears
Meherangarh fort
City Palace from Lake Pichola - Udaipur
Hotel Gangaur -Udaipur

Wedding march - not sure if Mick Jagger is in the melee as he was in town for a wedding the same time as me - the very night this photo was taken