Last few photos - road to Bangkok

Me recovering on the ferry

Cambodian village

Cambodian ferries

The Road Home

Wednesday 1^st February

Up at 5.30 bit earlier than I needed to be but it would have been a bit of a disaster plane wise if I had missed the bus. Was met by a drunken English guy in reception who was staggering around saying I should stay in Cambodia and not go home!!! Nice thought but I would miss everyone back home and I've never really got to grips with the food on this trip.

Had a lift up to the bus station and thankfully the moto driver knew where he was going as I was a bit confused as in my guidebook there were about half a dozen bus stops all depending on which bus company you were using. It was so nice not to have to go into long negotiations over the fare, as all he wanted was the going rate – if only the rest of the guys had tried not to ask for way over the odds fares.

Confusion abounded in the bus station over which van was going where – to say I was the second person there I still managed to get the most rubbish seat on the van that they decided eventually was going to Bangkok due to my bag being off loaded at least twice as it was on the wrong van. I ended up on a bench seat with no backrest, the first hour wasn’t too bad but then we hit the dirt roads and the pain kicked in with the thought that I had at least another 4 hours to put up with this. Roughly about every 45 minutes we were able to get out and stretch our legs due to river crossings by ferry – I took to lying against the bonnet of the van on these brief stops to try and sort my back out. Not too happy when we picked up another passenger as it was already cramped in the back – luckily she was a small mamasan but it was still a tight squeeze with people’s bags and nowhere to put your legs. It was a real shame as the countryside was really interesting hills, forests and rivers but I was just willing the van on to the border as quick as possible.

The border lay just after the town of Koh Kong – I attracted as usual the attention of the kids begging – I gave them crisps and bread but they were still not satisfied, nagging me for my Diet Coke (a sacrosanct item in my book) , this after a while started to get on my nerves. One of the guys James on our bus had a bit of trouble crossing the border as the friend he was travelling with had not actually entered Cambodia – how some one can do this amazes me and not notice that their passport hadn’t been stamped is a mystery – anyway because they were still stuck in Cambodia and their bags had gone into Thailand I ended up minding their luggage whilst they sorted the mess out.

Was so happy to get on the new mini van as I had a proper seat and the journey to Trat took less than two hours on proper roads. It was strange being back in Thailand as everything seemed so modern – we had to change buses yet again in Trat for the final time but it was a nice one with comfy seats but I didn’t think the driver needed to keep on the air conditioning quite as long as he did – the weather changed as we headed to Bangkok sheeting rain as the sun went down.

Wasn’t really sure where we would end up in Bangkok as I had been told two different places – anyway it was the Eastern Bus Station. Had a bit of hassle with the taxi drivers as they were asking for 300 baht for the journey to Khao San Road – I knew that was the fare to the airport and that was 30k’s up the road – I offered him a 100 which he turned down point blank so I headed off out the station and stopped one on the street. He was really cool and put the meter on and I wasn’t far out with my guess 93 baht and he did take the scenic route at one point, was so happy that someone hadn’t tried to rip me off that I gave him a tip – something I haven’t been that inclined to do very often as they have usually built their tip into the price of the journey - if only they were just straight with me.

It was past nine in the evening when I started out on my search for a hotel room – everywhere was full – six or seven hotels later I managed to get a room at the Peachey Guest house which was actually next to the first hotel I had stayed in back in December. The Peachey was a bit of a dive, my window wouldn’t shut as it was old (the lady on reception told me), grubby clean sheets and worst of all no toilet roll in the bathrooms – still it was a bed and the mattress was new with pictures of cute puppies on it. I didn’t linger long as it wasn't really a room you really wanted to linger in and headed out for pumpkin soup, chips and ice cream – had a bit of trouble explaining to waiter that I didn’t want it all turning up at the same time (something that has believe me happened to me in the past). Then I saw a really bizarre sad sight two poor elephants playing mouth organs – not very nice they should have been frolicking in the jungle.

Thursday 2^nd February

Last day I can’t believe it has gone so quick - chilled out in the morning sorting out my ruck sack and last minute shopping. Booked the minibus for the airport for 4 o’ clock and then headed off for my final visit to the beauty parlour – had my nails and feet done and then the lady commented that my hair was a bit a kin to the scarecrow in the Wizard of Oz – so she put this kind of wondrous conditioner on it and then steamed my hair – was interesting as I’m unlikely to have it done back home and I have got to say my hair came out lovely – probably the only time I have ever come out of a hairdressers quite happy with what they had done.

To try and get shot of my remaining baht I then went for a Thai massage – I’m not really clued up on the various different massages so I just pointed to one and said that’ll do – after five minutes I regretted it as it was a lot on the painful side was definitely not as relaxing as my one in Lao. Hobbling out I had to laugh because I didn’t realise this kind of thing went on – two male travellers in reception having a manicure as it hadn’t struck me as the kind of thing that blokes went for – you learn something new everyday.

Last beer down Khao San Road where I bought the daftest thing on this trip a wind up butterfly – seemed like a good idea at the time for my niece but it was a sod to get in my bag for the journey home.

Then minibus to the airport – I don’t know why I always get a driver who fancies himself as a comedian but I do - once memorably after 6 hour wait in Gatwick for the next bus so I wasn’t in the best of moods when he went in to his routine – it’s a simple question “are you going to the airport?” this guy decided it was amusing to say he was going to Chiang Mai when he was actually going to the airport and then laugh his head off - sorry I don’t get it but then it was probably down the fact I was really sad in one way to be heading home.

England just seemed so cold and grey when I landed the following day – didn’t pick the best time to come back weather wise. Hopefully heading out again later in the year not sure of a plan yet as there were so many other places I wanted to go to but ran out of time – so I’ll sign off now just for the time being.

Chillsville photos

Twilight on the beach

Nightime on the beach

Leg ladies at work - mama and daughter above

Daneth aged 10 with her painting

Kanha aged 6 with her painting

Tour aged 13 with his painting

Caroline, Yanne, Hanne and Urs - Yellow Monkey bar

Chillsville by the sea

Sunday 29^th January

Well today I did nothing and sometimes it is nice to do nothing – wandered the beach looking for Leng to do my feet but as it was Chinese New Year the beach was heaving. She did accost me on the way to my Tofu burger but I was on a mission, even though I am eating I wake up some times in the early hours of the morning and feel so sick because I am hungry – to curb this I have taken to having a packet of Cambodian Pringles by the bed which sorts it for a couple of hours.

The beach here in Sihanoukville must be one of the cleanest in the world, the sand is lovely and white – the reason for this cleanness is the harassment you get over your beer bottles as there are hoards of children collecting the empties – I’d rather take my time with my drink as I am not right into stumbling around in a disorientated state by 5pm – one little girl was having none of this and was like a vulture at the end of my table harassing me to finish my drink quicker – in the end after putting up with this for twenty minutes I told her she wasn’t being very polite, one not very happy child stomped off and every time she saw me she starting hissing. The other side of the coin I shared my chips with two lovely bracelet sellers called Byet (sp) and Nyet (sp) - well they helped me out as I was struggling a bit. I think they were well into shirking because as soon as they had polished off the plate and had a chill, they said we’re off home with big smiles on their faces.

I caused total confusion down the bar I was in last night – I’d forgotten to pay for a packet of cigarettes last night as they had just asked me what I’d had (they were clueless to what I had had) anyway it was niggling me that I hadn’t paid for the cigs so I took the money down and gave it to an extremely confused waitress – my memory must be going as I did the same at the Okay in Phnom Penh with a bottle of beer forgot to write it in the book but I was half way to Sihnaoukville before I realised – hopefully I’ve not been blacklisted.

There were more fireworks tonight on the beach – I think New Years Eve was last night but they spend 5 days celebrating it and then again in April they celebrate Khmer New Year, which I believe is a national holiday.

Back to the Ochidee where I think I am quite a good guest as we have this really big party of little people and I can’t figure out the relationships with their minders – anyway it’s a bit like a youth club holiday for the under 10’s and folk are coming in and out of the rooms requesting this and that – was fair gob smacked that you could request a spraying of your room – that’s one to remember. The most trouble I cause is can you give me a knock when sunny Jim gets off t’internet.

Monday 30^th January

I know they are only doing their job but it is a feature of these kitchen rooms that they make such a racket – if it’s not cockerels, it’s people crashing pans and having loud conversations waking me up.

Spent some time by the pool till the little people arrived – I think they are part of a religious group as all the kids were in red T-shirts listening to two guys talking about God (the words "worship" and "obey" were mentioned) in the car park, when I drifted through on my daily run up to the supermarket for Diet Coke and Toblerone.

Did a lovely Jack Duckworth mend on my sunglasses as the lens fell out – rummaging through the contents of my rucksack I came across micropore and cotton (I couldn’t quite go for the sticking plaster) and unless you look really close you’d never know. Once that was sorted headed off for a real nice walk to the quiet end of the beach where I found a really sound café run by a guy whose English was ropey but his French excellent. Dredging my mind for my French as I can only speak it in a Yorkshire accent, hence I don’t use it that often as no French person can or won’t understand me – I tend to get a lot of sniffing and hand throwing when I try with the word “quoi” mentioned a lot. But this guy was cool and got my drift that I was veggie and did me some really nice noodles and veg and it was really peaceful not getting harassed by the bottle guys and bracelet sellers.

Back along the beach looking for Leng once again to sort my feet out but she was nowhere to be seen – Dara though found me I think she had been scouring the beach for me for two days looking for my fruit order – to be honest I wasn’t that bothered but a promise is a promise so I ended up with a discounted bag of it which once I eaten the pineapple I gave away to the little kids who were coming up to me selling pictures and bracelets. This quite good looking Russian guy came and sat down next to me but he kinda blotted his copy book when he started twittering on about rip offs and then his wife and kids – managed to get rid of him by finding another foot lady whose name I have forgotten (I can be a bit on the hopeless side at times with names) but said Russian guy was off like a shot when she started getting all her foot beauty stuff out. Once my feet and nails had been suitably preened (and I’ve got to say it the first time ever I have had a professional pedicure) the lady and her daughter started on my legs which involved plucking the hairs out with cotton – did from time to time get someone coming up asking what was going on and it has to said was incredibly painful – anyway bad light stopped play and they promised to finish the job off tomorrow (so I had 24 hours to recover).

I had got chatting to an English girl Caroline from Essex who was travelling on her own and had been to Korea and Vietnam but wasn’t sure where she was heading off next – Laos or India. We ended up going to the open-air cinema over on Victory Beach to watch “Memories of a Geisha Girl” with two Dutch girls Yanne (pronounced Yarna) and Hanne (pronounced Hannah). It wasn’t film I would have made an effort to see but it was actually quite good – think it got banned in Japan because the actress playing the lead was Chinese or something along those lines. However even though it was in English someone had had the foresight to provide English subtitles as a bonus – I think whoever had done the subtitles had inhaled a little too deeply at some point in time (probably when they were doing the subtitles) as they turned it into a bit of comedy so among the more memorable ones I remember - were translated as:

A favour = a flaming truck
Year after Year = Yuri
The Chairman = the German
I like Saki = I like Suck (it should be noted that that this memorable line was when the rival girl was in a swimming pool with half dressed American men)

It was a really cool cinema with cushions set on a hillside – ice cream and beer brought to your seat. As we were the last ones to arrive we ended up on my sarong at the front – in the intermission (remember those???) there was a raffle and I do confess I did get a bit overexcited when he pulled my ticket out (the benefit of being the last one in I think mine was on top) - not having won anything since a bottle of Cinzano Bianco at the Malpas Union Club in 1989 I did provide a bit comedic entertainment when I shouted “Yes” and a little whoo when I scampered up to collect my prize (people can be so blasé about these things) of “1 free drink at the Bouncey bar” – well it looked like that on the ticket and which would actually cost me 3 dollars in taxi fares to collect – still I’ll keep it just in case I’m back, filed at home in a safe place along with my 4 free pints that I won in a pub quiz (2^nd prize) in Perranporth in the summer of 2000.

Tuesday 31^st January

Last night I booked a trip to the islands - looking at the boats that came in so as not to repeat the Dutch Dudley/Ting Ping experience and to see which ones actually had people on them – unfortunately the trip also included free breakfast which sounded a bit ominous. Lovely sunny day as I wandered down the beach and quiet – the beach has been heaving due to Chinese New Year – families with picnic baskets, kids on inflatable tyres – really strange as the women and young girls all go in fully clothed, men naturally are in Western swimming togs (though the ones favoured by the US and Britain, central Europeans are still going through the Speedo phase) – just an accurate observation that last bit not a criticism.

When I arrived at the bar it looked even more ominous as there was only one other person waiting for the free breakfast – a Greek guy whose name once more has been lost into the annals of my memory but it definitely had an opolis in and for story purposes shall call him Aristotle. I think old Ari was on the hunt for a woman – well he came and sat next to me and started offering me cheese triangles - all I could I could think of was “beware of Greeks bearing gifts” plus I’m not that keen on cheese triangles due to an unfortunate incident with mouldy Egyptian ones and my sister many years ago.

The boat did actually fill up and to be honest was so overloaded I think I could have rowed there quicker – first stop was a real small island where we supposed to go snorkelling – I was a bit put off as I’ve found S E Asian people don’t travel well (the amount of vomit I’ve witnessed along the way has really hardened my stomach as I have been known in the past to join in – in sympathy) – two people were being Huey Lewey off the side of the boat - lovely and this didn’t take into account the guys who were hawking and spitting as well. Just did a Geronimo off the other side of the boat - to be honest it wasn’t that great (never have totally bonded with snorkelling as everything tends to fill up with water) you could see fishes but wondrous coral was a bit on the lacking side.

Then it was off to Bamboo Island, which we landed on – I did get a bit stroppy (again!!-I know) with the barman as after I had bought a couple of beers he then tried to charge me for a deckchair and to use the toilet – I don’t think so. It makes me sound like a real grouch but I then had a go at the guys doing lunch as there was no vegetarian option – I just think that especially as I had said that “bon lie” when I booked it a bit of cheese or eggs was not that difficult. Apparently the guy in charge had not told them so I ended up with a bread roll, sticky rice and some shredded cabbage – mmh lovely. Ari came over and offered me some calamares – and then went into stage two of his chat up routine, which involved dinner and a massage in his hotel room as he owned a massage parlour in Rhodes and was allegedly good at masseuring. Other snippets that came out was that he had lots of money and had split up with his wife – I think the lack of impressedness must have shown on my face and that I had prior engagement packing my rucksack he eventually took his leave. Luckily because I wasn’t born on a banana boat there was no way in the world I would have ever entertained the thought of going back to his hotel room but it did give me a laugh – why do guys think because you are on your own that you must be desperate for a man – so so wrong.

Chilled on the beach and went for a swim where I attracted the attention of these Cambodian kids who I think had just completed an advanced course in what not to say in English. They were fascinated by my semi whitish skin (they sell creams to achieve this colour in Cambodia – we buy stuff to tan, they buy stuff to whiten their skin) – I did try and point out to them that it not really polite to ask random strangers “who are you sleeping with” (!!) and say the words “F**k you” but I think it did fall a bit on deaf ears.

The boat took an age to get back and thankfully Ari realised he was flogging a dead horse with his dinner date and avoided me for the rest of the trip. Landed back in town and tried to find my leg ladies who were nowhere to be seen – met up with Caroline and then Hanne and Yanne who had been out to the Bokor National Park – which sounded so much better than the trip I had been on. My leg ladies daughters then turned up and had a go at finishing the job – at one point I had three of them working on me – one pulling one leg one way, the other the other way – with me complaining that I wasn’t that great at ambidexterity to get into the positions they wanted me to.

In the end I paid them to stop inflicting pain – and amazingly mama appeared at this point and an argument ensued about who should get what – we had laugh about it as mama was wanting her cut whereas I thought the kids should have got as they had been struggling on my legs for an hour or so. It was all sorted amicably in the end but I’m not sure the littlest was right happy with her mam.

Ended up having a sort of last night meal at the Yellow Monkey with Caroline, Hanne and Yanne and a Swiss guy Urs (who was really intelligent in that he was some kind of scientist in Switzerland) as we were all heading off in different directions the following day. Amazing lightening storm was going off round the bay which was really pretty and we were surrounded by kids selling their paintings and bracelets – me, Hanne and Yanne were well into the paintings and I ended up with three, Hanne bought four in total(two of which she had had to go back to the cinema last night for as she left them by her seat) and Yanne three – a dollar goes to the child and a dollar to the charity to help the children who work on the beach. Urs ended up with a shark keyring that I don’t think he was quite sure what to do with and it has got to be said the beggars did very well that night even though we had heard stories that after dragging their bodies up and down the sands they walked off the beach and the ladies with babies could on occasions hire a baby for the day up in town.

I’ll miss Cambodia even though it has driven me crackers at times – well I’ll miss S E Asia when I’m back home as despite all the horror stories I’ve always felt safe here being on my own and met some great people.

Sihanoukville photos

Yet another sunset - this time Ochheuteal Beach

The beach on a quiet day

Journeys End

Fireworks Chinese New Year

Happy New Year (again!)

Friday 27^th January

Another rotten nights sleep – I’m sure it’s the heat. Bus to Sihanoukville left at 8.15 so I wandered down at 7.30 and found out it was leaving in 15 minutes. A bit of a panto with the bill as the guy tried to overcharge me for the room – he said it was big but I hadn’t asked for big I asked for 4 dollar and if they took me to the wrong room it was their problem I pointed out. Then the ticket to Sihanoukville was a classic, when I put my name down it was 4 dollars but when I came to pay it had jumped to six dollars (the 4 dollars crossed out for a limited period as it was Chinese New Year which I had thought was the beginning of Feb) – I just thought as they had known for 12 months the imminence of the Year of the Dog, they could have changed the price before allegedly yesterday morning. Anyway he did reduce the room bill but I had to pay the going rate for the bus ticket – honestly it does tire you out sometimes the arguing over money because I’m sure they think you are being petty.

Because the tuk tuk was leaving in 15 minutes there was no time for breakfast and to coin Vera Duckworth I could have eaten a scabby horse. I got a sprawler again on the bus, felt like saying to him if he wanted half my seat he should have bought two tickets. Just as I’d dropped into my weird sleeping position the bus driver decided to stop so I took the opportunity to buy two packets of really dodgy crisps to stave off my stomach which once again was giving me hassles. I always panic on these stops going to the toilet as you never know how long the bus is going to remain there for – but I braved it and I’ve had this before Oriental women and toilet stops I cannot imagine what they get up to but they are in there for an age – definitely the last time I adopt queue protocol every man/woman for themselves next time.

The countryside changed as Cambodia for the most part has been really flat with paddies and sugar palms – here we had hills and trees, which made a change and finally after about 4 hours there was the Gulf of Thailand a sort of journeys end, as I’ll be heading back home after Sihanoukville. In an effort to try and get some exercise I decided to ignore all motorbikes and walk to my guesthouse - I think sometimes I must have a sixth sense as this was the first one I’d booked since Bangkok totally unaware that it was Chinese New Year and rooms would be difficult to find. Harassment wise on the walk it was mega - continually asked “where are you going” which personally I find a bit on the nosey side so I usually answer either a) for a walk b) to my guesthouse or c) mind your own business (insert expletive) business if they really bug me. Some of the guys are great and “Tay Orcun” works fine but some and one guy in particular was a real pain - it got to the stage I was saying which bits of Tay and Orcun do you not understand as he was bennying on about five dollar and under rooms as he had me pigeoned in the pauper material category – funny a lot of places/people don’t think of me like that thinking of Mr Sophal in Angkor Wat in particular.

My room at the Orchidee was cool – view wise not great kitchen one side and washing line other but it was the only place I could have got a room for 10 dollars with a swimming pool and it is a feature of these pricier places mossies so the net had to go up again – 3 dollars in Siem Riep and no hassles with them.

Got chatting to a Norwegian couple who were into folk dancing and had been to Anglesey – they were a bit confused on what day of the week it was and had been travelling a week. I know the feeling after seven and a half weeks I sometimes have to look in my diary to check out where I am date wise. They thought I was young (which when compared to my Aunty Em who will be 97 this year I am) but generally when compared with other travellers I am not - they did say I looked like a teenager – nice though the thought is think that is stretching it a bit.

Spent the afternoon chilling down the beach and I have to say the Cambodians certainly know how to do a good plate of chips. Was hassled a bit by the bracelet sellers and bottle collectors – one kid in particular was particularly cheeky but he had a good line in that he said the only words he understood were Yes and okay – you had to admire him for his sales patter but I still wasn’t buying. Got invited to an “ awesome” birthday party by a guy who looked like Calum Best – don’t usually get invited to things where the “young and the beautiful” hang out – well I think he was more after a light for his ciggy than making a beeline for me.

Gorgeous sunset – few beers and then bed.

Saturday 28^th January

Awesome nights sleep!!! Very tired but up still fairly early as being in my usual room next to the kitchen it isn’t the most restful place in the guesthouse after 7 am. Took advantage of the pool and then headed off up into town – the guy originally wanted three dollars for the journey – I’ll walk brought it down to a dollar and a half which was what it should have been. I was a bit shopped out after Phnom Penh so my mission was to post the last of my postcards which did involve breaking into the grounds of the post office as it was shut (no post boxes on the streets in Cambodia) and stock up with Diet Coke and Toblerone from the supermarket. Back to the pool for more chilling before it got overrun by the large number of little people who seemed to have arrived that day at the Orchidee.

Headed off to the beach around 4 and some more serious chilling. I got quite into the beauty treatments on offer so had my nails done by a lovely lady called Leng and then was given a friendship bracelet by a young girl called Dara – marketing ploy as I promised to buy some fruit from her later on. Ended up playing noughts and crosses with two young boys who I wasn’t sure of – they wanted 100 riels but I said 100 smiles were a lot better which didn’t go down too well.

Another great sunset and then the café I was in built a bonfire and I got chatting to a couple from Lancashire Rachel and Jason who were on a four and a half month honeymoon. They were off to Vietnam next so I told them about Mui Ne which was a really nice beach resort up from Saigon. Jason couldn’t believe he was in Cambodia as they normally went on package holidays and he had such a big smile on his face – it was so nice to meet people who were really into the place and not just on a ticking exercise.

Firecrackers and fireworks were going off all down the beach, which was really pretty, and then I met Maree (sp) who lived the other side of Monmouth. She was bit spaced out as she had just come all the way from Siem Riep and had had trouble finding a room and was well into moving in the morning. She was well into festivals and had even seem Jimi Hendrix and Bob Dylan at the Isle of Wight ones in the late sixties/early seventies – really weird to meet two lots of English people after weeks of hardly meeting anyone.

Back to the Orchidee where I got quite into watching the Discovery Channel, Jack Nicholson films and the Chinese news as I was till trying to figure out when the Chinese New Year actually started - still none the wiser when the telly went off.

Phnom Penh Photos

Sundown Phnom Penh

Choeung Ek Memorial Stupa

Monkeying around

Wat Phnom

Toul Sleng Genocide Museum

Royal Palace

Russian market and Toul Sleng

Thursday 26^th January

Not as good nights sleep as last night as I spotted a mossie in the room and had to put up the net, which isn’t really designed for a 5’ 6” roof.

Headed off to the Russian market late morning to finish off the ordeal of present shopping on the back of a motorbike ridden by a lad called Toy (sp). It’s a bit of an art market shopping for me as essentially I want to avoid the dead animal section so I tend to drift round the edges which does attract the attention of the amputees and beggars. You do get hardened to it as one lady came up to me selling books – she had really the most terrible burns to one half of her face and upper body.

Then it was off to the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum – this was the place where people were interrogated before they were sent to Choeung Ek. It was a former high school so once where children had laughed and played, people were tortured and died – only 7 survived due to the Vietnamese invasion in 1979. It was quite a harrowing place to visit – I felt you could smell death and couldn’t go into some of the rooms where they had photos of the people who had been tortured. The whole of ground floor of one building showed photo upon photo of ordinary people and children as the Khmer Rouge were quite meticulous in recording who passed through the prison – it was the children that got me the most as they didn’t have a life which they should have done. It should also be said that leaders of this cruel regime lived long after 1979 and never faced any retribution for their crimes which I found a bit hard to take in.

Jakee came over later in the evening at the Okay – he had only been learning English for three months but it was far better than my limited Khmer – he was off dancing and said did I want to go – had to decline as even though it could have been interesting I don’t think me and a teenage Cambodian disco would have really been my scene. He said something which I think is true that Cambodia is more than the Killing Fields – I’ve got to say all the waiters were really nice at the Okay – apart from the awesome’s and televisions it was a good place to stay.

The Killing Fields and mardy moments

Wednesday 25^th January

One of the best nights sleep in along while, the bed and pillows were so comfy – some rooms I have stayed in it has been akin to sleeping on concrete. Moved rooms to my 4 dollar a night pad - I’m in the annex as usual (aka the west wing) and it’s quiet but built for midgets as the ceiling is only 5’ 6”, I can just about make it under the door without banging my head (unlike the girl next door who nearly knocked herself out this morning). Got all confused where to go today as long lunches abound and by the time I’d sorted my room and washing out it was after ten.

One of the waiters at the guesthouse Jakee agreed to take me out to Choeung Ek, which is the site of the Killing Fields. I remember when I was a kid seeing a film about this place – all the bones and skulls stacked in sheds – it has changed now as they have built a huge memorial stupa where they are kept now in glass display cabinets sorted by age and sex – one of the saddest things is the clothing that they exhumed with the bones that they unearthed.

I just found it so sad and to think as well that this had happened in my lifetime – kids who would have been my age now had been tortured and killed whilst I was playing in the school playground in Yorkshire. It has got to be said there were some pretty awful living kids there hassling for money – one girl gave them some water and then they wanted more and started chanting, she was quite upset by this and tried to tell them to pipe down as this was a memorial to which they laughed and jumped over the fence surrounding one of the mass burial sites for children, laid flat on the ground with arms outstretched.

I couldn’t understand why the guys who ran the memorial let them do this. There are still people buried there – in 1980 they exhumed the remains of 8985 people from 86 of the burial pits – there are still 43 that remain untouched with an estimate that over 17,000 in total died at Choeung Ek. In the country as a whole between 1975 and 1979 it is reckoned that between 1 and 3 million people died under Khmer Rouge.

Was quite sad when I left but it was a lovely ride back on the motorbike past all the fields of morning glory – a vegetable that after going to Vietnam and having far too much of the “green stuff” as we called it I have managed to avoid so far.

Walked up to Wat Phnom in the afternoon (the Wat that gives Phnom Penh its name) via the post office where the woman on the stamp counter annoyed me as she gave 1500 and 500 riel stamps instead of a 2000 which would have fitted on the postcards I had already written – her excuse was that she didn’t have any which I found a little hard to believe in the main post office of the capital city. Wat Phnom was full of monkeys, which looked so cute and funny climbing across the telephone lines in the street.

I did go to the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda but I think the heat must have got to my head (either that or I’m a mardy cow at times), I wasn’t too bothered about photographs as there were places you couldn’t take them but the heavy mob on the gates said I had to put my camera in a locker (or buy a camera ticket) – I was quite prepared to put the battery in but not the whole camera as it cost me a lot of money and there was a really cute sign saying they were not responsible for the items you left - words were exchanged and they even followed me to the lockers to make sure I did as I was told – “rules are guidelines” I told him as I stomped off. So I didn’t really enjoy the Palace and Pagoda as beautiful as they were and things weren’t helped at the two places I went into, someone tugged my shirt and pointed to the donation box – they didn’t half pick their moments with that.

To calm down I went off elephant watching at the Corner Bar which I liked as they had potted shrubs around which deflected you from a lot of the begging and harassment you get on the riverside. According to my guidebook (Sept 2005) Sam Bo the Wat Phnom elephant walks home through the rush hour traffic along Sisowath Quay – well I was really disappointed as he didn’t show (day off???). Headed back along the quay – I’m getting quite good at crossing this one junction where the traffic comes from about eight different directions – just take a deep breath and weave.

Not so many awesomes in the Okay bar when I finally got back and we didn’t have the tennis on which I was thankful for. I did mention to the waiters that the ambience could be improved a bit if the fuses were removed from the televisions which fell on deaf ears – reminded me a bit of the weird people in a Vang Viang café who sat in bed all day and night watching Friends repeats – apparently it was a sea of flashing Santa hats to add to the surrealness of this spectacle at Christmas

Magic Moment on the Tonle Sap

Tuesday 24^th January

Up at the unbelievably early time of 5am, my landlady should have given me a call but she overslept and came muttering apologies twenty minutes later. Bit of a pantomime collecting everyone as the guys at the Happy Guesthouse were still in bed – they rammed 11 of us in the truck along with luggage which was piled precariously high that it was at chin level.

Bit of a surprise when we arrived at the port – which has got to have had one of the worst smells I have encountered on this trip (it was up there with India) the stench of fish and filth was severely bad. I had decided to go to Phnom Penh instead of Battambang as I knew I was running out of time - this blonde haired girl got out of the front of the truck and said “Hi D’you remember me” in an unmistakable French accent, I looked up from retrieving my bag from under the pile and said “It’s Corinne”. It truly is a small small world – me and Corinne first met in Halong Bay (Vietnam) in 2004 and then again in Sapa a few days later when we got motorbikes (and guides) with an American guy called Jules and had an amazing day biking round the mountains. We never stayed in contact through e-mail but with people who are well into this life I believe you will meet again. Corinne was travelling with her parents and had left France to live in Thailand, she was heading for Battambang which was such a shame as I would have liked to talk more - but the odds of this happening on the same truck, same person from 15 months ago, different country – was in my mind a magic moment in travelling.

For some reason I decided to sit on the roof of the boat – I just drifted into this – the Swiss guy from yesterday at Banteay Semre got on in a very fetching yellow cravat. Eventually (it was I think it was a good 4 hours after I had left my bed) we headed out through the floating villages with smiling children waving from their floating classrooms – as soon as we hit Tonle Sap most people headed off the roof inside – there were 10 of us who braved it across the lake including one guy who had the dodgiest T-shirt ever – I just couldn’t understand how he had stood in front of the mirror and said “yep I look good in this – it’s gonna impress” - the slogan FBI and underneath the words Female Body Inspector – twas a bit creepy in my mind. I was on the roof by default as I couldn’t get off the damn thing as the boat was going some and as there were no railings I was convinced I’d end up in the lake – balance is not one of my strong points. It was a bit on the breezy side and the sun was a bit on the deceptive side as I ended up crashing out for a while and waking up with a slightly red nose.

Arrival in Phnom Penh was a bit of a fight through the tuk tuk touks to find one who wasn’t bothered and ended up at the Okay Guesthouse, which was recommended by Gudrun who I met in Champasek and the Melbourne guys in Don Det. Wasn’t quite sure if it was my scene as too many words like awesome were mentioned and people were sat watching the television – ended up in an $8 dollar room with a promise that a $4 one would be available tomorrow – I shouldn’t be so suspicious but when I walk in somewhere and the most expensive room is the only one available my bullshit detector goes into overdrive – I was right though and saved a monumental 2 dollars by questioning was this the only room they had.

Wandered around the city avoiding taxis – always find it’s the best way to travel as you get to know the streets (think I mentioned this in Bangkok) – found the bank and then nearly made a show of myself in the Bayon Supermarket as I was a bit like a kiddy in a sweet shop when I saw Mars Bars and Kettle Chips. It’s a bit crazy when I think I moan about room prices and then go and blow 6 dollars on Diet Coke, Mars Bars and crisps – total madness.

Few beers on the riverside and hassle from kids selling books, they didn’t really bother me but an American guy came over and said you should say “Tay Orcun” (No Thank you) – he thought I was new to travelling and was just trying to help which I thought was sweet – but I do think sometimes people think I am a soft target (he mentioned that) but in my own way I handle it by prattling on, getting mardy and only doing what I am happy with - so I get by without too much hassle but I’ve got to say “Tay Orcun” has worked like a dream.

Back to the Okay for a few beers – was driven a bit mad by the people at the next table explaining card rules for three quarters of an hour (people watching is wonderful sometimes) – then they started talking politics and I realised I am not as stupid as I thought I was.

Angkor Wat photos

Angkor Wat

View from Angkor Wat Corncrake Towers

Me on the top (not literally) of Angkor Wat

Gateway to Angkhor Thom

Kapok tree Ta Phrom

Banteay Srei

Rock carvings Kbal Spean

Kapok tree Ta Som temple

Me Ta Som Temple

Preah Khan Temple

Me at Banteay Semre

Sundown at Phnom Bakheng (did remind me a bit of sunrise at the Stone Circle at Glastonbury)

Templed out in Angkor Wat

Saturday 21st January

These things happen and don’t half pick their moments but the stomach cramping is back again – it’s never totally been sorted as I’ve been taking the odd antibiotic now again – I blame the gorgeous egg mayo sandwich from yesterday morning for this episode.

But I was supposed to be going off templing to Angkor Wat so dragged myself out to get some water and found a tuk tuk driver who was resting – he wouldn’t bargain so I figured this is going to be an expensive trip. Everyone I’ve spoken to has said to go for the three day pass which I found out last week would cost me forty dollars plus ten dollars a day for tuk tuk driver as it is allegedly too far to bike it (re Rough Guide) – in real terms it isn’t a lot but when you have been living comfortably on less than twenty dollars a day it seems like a fortune.

I was feeling pretty rough when the driver Mr Sophal parked up at the first temple Angkor Wat – plus there were a lot of tour buses there but it wasn’t as horrendous people wise as I thought it would be. You crossed a large moat on a causeway which was so hot I really didn’t think I was going to make it and then another causeway across parkland – this young lad wanted his photo taken with me as I was a foreigner, he didn’t pick the best moment but I made the effort and smiled.

The temple itself was amazing – really intricate patterns on the walls telling stories and the huge corncrake towers which you can climb up though the stairs were a bit daunting and nie on vertical. It wasn’t an easy climb for someone who has problems changing light bulbs up a step ladder and I did bottle it once but then I saw pensioners and kids up there (who had admittedly used a ropey thing) so went for like a little monkey scrambling up not looking down or up for that matter. The view was great you could see for miles – getting down was a bit more problematic and I did attract a bit of a crowd who kept pointing to the ropey thing but that would have been worse as I would have had about 50 Korean/Japanese tourists on my heels so I just inched my way down very very slowly repeating the mantra “you are not gonna fall” and I got there in the end.

Next temple was Bayon which was in the huge walled city of Angkhor Thom – more climbing and scrambling but not quite as bad as Angkor Wat though I did get struck half way up the restored Northern Library not being able to move up or down – resolved the matter eventually but should have taken note of the two Irish lads who got stuck as well.

Went into anti herding mode when Mr Sophal tried to get me into this café – the stallholders were really aggressive shouting as you walked along “madam you want this, madam you want that” – what madam would have really liked was for everyone to calm down and not accost her but it was a bit of an impossibility. Didn’t really get on with my driver as he didn’t seem to care and just thought I was a wallet – every temple he mumbled something, I got out, looked in the Rough Guide and got the gist of what he was saying.

There are too many temples to mention but one of my favourites was Ta Prohm where huge kapok trees grow on top of the buildings – their roots entwined around the bricks – there were quite a few disabled musicians playing really nice music as I walked around the temples which was cool.

Back by 4 and as I still wasn’t feeling 100% I rested (it’s hard going visiting temples) and read my new book, which is about Haing S Ngor the guy who played Dith Pran in the film version of “The Killing Fields”. Finally found a place that did pumpkin soup, which I have been looking for since Luang Prabang at a lovely café across the way.

Three things I don’t like about my hotel the Sunrise are the locking in – reminds me of the disastrous night I spent in the Dulce Suenos guesthouse in Seville – the décor in my room is 70’s swirly vinyl wood board and I think there is a bit of an ant problem but luckily they are not biters you just have to flick them off the sheets

Sunday 22nd January

Not sleeping well in this place but it has to be really bad to shift me once I’ve dumped my bag – a bed is a bed - it’s the three dollars a night that really appeals to me and once more I have the west wing to myself.

Mr Sophal who I suspect had been carousing a bit aka Me in Vang Viang met me at 9 – he was twittering away about Banteay Srei but as that was 35km away it would cost me 20 dollars – thought about it and then agreed to that plus the rest of the Grand Tour. Banteay Srei was nice as it is probably the best preserved temple but it was very crowded – it was noticeable that Mr Sophal went considerably faster than any other tuk tuk driver, he definitely went for the smoother ride for himself whilst I tended to hit the ruts in the road sitting in the carty thing at the back. He then said did I want to go to Kbal Speen – well if I did It would cost me another ten dollars – so I said no way – I was paying 20 dollars which I have paid before for trips and had my lunch included and the guide has had an interest in what he was doing not just seen me as a wallet – I tried to explain to him that you can’t lump all tourists together, I’m obviously not on the same budget as someone paying a hundred and fifty dollars a night for a room – anyway he came down to five dollars but in my mind he should have explained the pricing structure before he set out – so I went for it as it did sound a bit different to the majority of temples.

Not sure it was the 13k’s he claimed as my guidebook which is not infallible said it was 5k’s but Kbal Speen was really nice – you walked 2k up into the woods and finally came across a waterfall and a river which had carvings in the river bed. There was a guy selling drinks at silly prices (because he had to carry it there) he probably wouldn’t have to carry so much down if he was a bit more sensible as he lost two sales when I was there. The waterfall was great you could stand under it but even though it was really hot I gave it a miss as a) didn’t want to sit in wet clothes all day and b) my trousers +water = transparent.

Mr Sophal was quite happy as Kbal Speen to him meant he could sit drinking beer for a couple of hours in a café that he was quite keen to get me eating in. Everything on the menu was three dollars and Diet Coke an amazing two dollars – double what it was in the posh gaff across the road – as it wasn’t a great menu I wandered off to the nice pregnant lady and bought something from her and in return she brought me pineapple and didn’t hassle me.

Mr Sophal who was a bit annoyed with me as he probably hadn’t got a discount on his beer and food said did I want to go to Banteay Samre and see sunset at Phnom Bakheng. I couldn’t believe it when he wanted another 5 dollars for this so I told him quite firmly that the Bank of Clare was shut for the day – “right you don’t go” he said – “oh don’t I” I thought we’ll see about that.

Relations deteriorated a bit after that but I was always polite to him but I wouldn’t go into the cafes he wanted me to go in – had a lovely time chilling in the temples and took my time so it was nearly sunset when we got back. It was so nice to see restoration going on at one temple Preah Khan that I had seen on television years back when they were talking about the Khmer Rouge destruction.

Arrived back at the guesthouse just as dusk was falling where Mr Sophal uttered the immortal line “What time tomorrow?” to which I replied “no I don’t think so tomorrow, I’m going to hire a pushbike and go to the temples you wouldn’t take me to” and there ended my dealings with Mr Sophal. It’s not the money thing more the fact he just saw me as a walking ATM – he saw my three-day pass and thought especially as I was on my own that he could take advantage.

Anyway more pumpkin soup for my tea and once more trouble sleeping – I thought it was the dark walls and ants so changed beds again.

Monday 23^rd January

Lovely to have a lie in – finished my Haing S Ngor book and even though there were three pages missing at a crucial bit it was a real harrowing and amazing story - I think he maybe suffered more than Dith Pran the guy he portrayed in “The Killing Fields” as Dith’s family escaped to America whilst Haing lost nearly everyone including his wife in childbirth - the story doesn’t have a happy ending in 1996 he was murdered in Los Angeles by a gang who were after his dead wife’s locket.

Anyway I chilled in the morning, finally got my act together round dinnertime and headed off with the pushbike. I still don’t do junctions very well but if it’s a right turn (it’s opposite to home) I can handle it – they don’t miss a trick and called me back when I inadvertently rode through the checkpoint and took an age checking my pass.

It was a lovely ride once you got into the park – stopped at Kravan to take a picture as my camera battery had run down the other day and was immediately surrounded by kids selling T-shirts and bracelets – the problem with the bracelets as they are made for people with chunkier arms than me – bit difficult to get that across with my limited Khmer so I tend to prattle on a bit.

Banteay Semre was quite a hike and the picture brigade along the way did accost me – but it was so nice to be free not relying on a driver that I wished I had done it this way on the first day. The temple was really quiet on the people front but someone had brought a tape deck so some really nice classical music was playing as you wandered among the buildings. Had a chat with a Swiss guy who was a bit templed out and then headed off to cycle the grand tour, which was definitely doable on a bicycle contrary to my guidebook but in an anticlockwise direction as there seemed more downhill.

I got ambushed by a small group of kids who first of all gave me a picture and then started bargaining with me about how much money I should give them - I just find it so sad this money obsession – and because I am so disorganised I never have anything to give them from home – but I have got some ideas for when I travel again that doesn’t involve sweets or money.

Arrived at Phnom Bakheng which was heaving – for people who couldn’t face the climb elephants were waiting to escort you up the hillside for a price – me I just followed the throngs heading up the hill which reminded me of the Big Dipper sand dune at Merthyr Mawr. I kept getting stuck behind people who were weaving and to be honest not sure of the nationality Korean or Japanese they were well into barging. I knew sunset wasn’t going to be great as it was too cloudy and far too busy but the view from the top was great. On a good day you can see (and this wasn’t a good) you can see as far as Tonle Sap – the huge lake in central Cambodia.

Lovely cycle ride back into town just as dusk was falling but I did suffer from occasional bouts of bike rage much to the amusement of café dwellers and pedestrians – this usually manifested it self when cars pulled out in front of me and cars barely overtook me. That aside I think I did about 30k in an afternoon and it didn’t hurt too much so maybe I’m not as unfit as I believe I am.

Kratie - Siem Riep

Thursday 19^th January

Up early to catch the bus – forgot to mention yesterday there is proof you are never too old, a 67-year-old Swedish pensioner called Tom checked into the hotel – backpack though he grimaced at the weight of mine – he was on the shed with us from Stung Treng and didn’t moan about the air con.

I had a sprawler next to me for the first leg of the journey to Skone (pronounced Skun) - the countryside was so flat – I did sometimes look at some the older people and wonder what they went through under the Pol Pot/Khmer Rouge regime – read a book last year by Loung Ung who would be about my age now – it was about what the children went through – the title says it all “First They Killed My Father”.

Any way on an upbeat note – was surrounded by kids when we figured out we were in a rather fly blown café in Skone - with an approximate time in Cambodian hours that the next bus would leave at 2pm - ended up sharing a table with another Dutch couple and a Swedish lad (who possibly had thought he would be on a mini van from Don Det to Siem Riep) – lots of beggars, amputees and fruit sellers were milling around – some people react differently I get mardy when I get off the bus looking for my bag and people are ramming stuff in my face – but once bag has been located I’m okay will talk to the kids and say I’ve eaten, buy off the quietest, generally don’t give money but will give food and cigs away – but no ciggies to kids. There was one little lad in the café who was so filthy and he just went round all the tables emptying all the leftovers into a carrier bag.

Bus was only ten minutes late amazingly and it was more of the same flat paddy field scenery dotted with sugar palms. Still once again we were rammed into the first six rows – me sat next to the Swedish lad – we were both pretty knackered after two days travelling – he had left Vang Viang on Sunday which was some serious travelling but possibly not the best way to go about things. A rather strange film was shown – a feature of Cambodian buses they love their Kung Fu movies – within the first 5 minutes we had had one suicide, bloke found in a fridge and a couple of random killings – then it switched to four blokes eating cucumber sandwiches in an English country garden – very bizarre.

Some guys got on the bus near Siem Riep and started hustling which I ignored – well they ignored me as they thought I was with the Swedish guy (who incidentally didn’t look Swedish) – shared a tuk tuk with him to save a few pennies and found that whatever you say they will take you to where they want to go but because on occasions I’m smarter than the average bear I get my map out – tapped said tuk tuk driver on the shoulder saying “we’re here” whilst he was still intent on taking us on a magical mystery tour down the other end of town which would have no doubt involved visits to guesthouses.

Booked in at the Sunrise - $3 dollars a night with shared bathroom and floorboards which is a bit of a novelty for me – not totally happy with the lock on the door must remember next time to check both sides of the door – sometimes tuk tuk mania gets you and can addle your brain – surrounded by 10 – 15 blokes all hassling to take you when all you want is a fag and a stretch ranks along side my mardy moments with tour guides.

Anyway found a really cool café, which was a bit like Hill Street Blues in Amsterdam with all the writing on the wall. The waiter helped me with my Khmer so that I’m nearly up to twenty in numbers now – had a really strange meal of mashed potato and vegetables – tomato and cucumber are not want I’d consider to be vegetables - back on my craving for Western food.

Friday 20th January

Lovely lie in till 8.30 – who would have thought me enjoying getting up at these unearthly hours but I knew I had to sort stuff out today – essentially money, laundry and stamps. Lovely egg mayo sandwich for breakfast and then headed off over the river to be hassled along way by tuk tuk drivers constantly asking “where are you going” which to be honest I find a little on the nosey side and me answering “for a walk”.

It wasn’t worth changing the money into riels at the bank – I got a better rate at a café on the border the other day. Met a lost American so showed him the way to the market – once I suss out a place I can usually visualise the map in my head, which does come in handy, it’s the arrival left/right north/south that always foxes me. The market was heaving as they always are – this was where the tuk tuk guy wanted to take us last night as there were lots of pricey cafes and guesthouses and inevitably lots of beggars wearing baseball caps which they whipped off when they saw you coming.

I don’t shop well but I knew I had to make an effort (and it was an effort) and you couldn’t stop for five seconds without someone saying “madam you buy this”. What really I find hard to deal with is when you show a slightest interest they come and sit on your shoulder (not literally) – another lacking phrase in my guidebook is “I’m just browsing – go chill out on your stool – if I need anything I’ll let you know” – I can’t remember it being this bad in Lao but it did bring back memories of Vietnam. Anyway did my buying and through careful negotiations managed to get everything for about half of what they were asking but it was still an ordeal and a half.

Needed some time out so spent a few pleasant hours reading my new book “Off the rails in Phnom Penh” I do love photocopy books so cheap and this was one of the books I nearly bought in Vietnam – lack of room in the rucksack prevented me back then.

Headed back to the market around 4 looking for silk shirts – I do find that sometimes the sellers sound like they are whining – got into heavy negotiations over a silver box that I wasn’t that fussed on and when I said that I wasn't really interested the girl was practically stamping her foot, pouting and demanding to know “why you not buy?”

Accosted by a young boy who was doing normal kiddie things till he saw me coming and then it was a demand for money, I swear he told me to f**k off when I refused. I did relent down the market and gave some notes away but it’s the hardness in their faces like they expect it from you so I can’t really make my mind up on this – do I give or not.

Headed back to the calm of Wat Bo Street – I think I made the right decision in deciding to stay there no beggars and just the odd tuk tuk driver asking you “where are you going?”

Cambodia photos

Cambodian border post

Mekong ferry

The shed we travelled in

Stung Treng to Kratie road

Puncture on road to Kratie

Wow that took me ten minutes to download those photos instead of losing an hour of my life - back home now but will be finishing this off over the next couple of weeks.

Into Cambodia

Wednesday 18th January

Up early again and got my order in for a pumpkin burger as I knew it would take an age as Mrs Nois prepares it from scratch. It was wondrous when it arrived, the only Lao food I managed to clear the plate with continuously. It was so sad to leave the bungalows and Lao – thankfully Mr Nois didn’t pack us in like the guy the day before.

Had to pay a dollar at the border to get a stamp – I always want to argue especially if said stamp is really crappy and smudgy but it was cheaper than leaving Vietnam which really cleaned me out. We then inherited this guy whose job it was to take us over the border – who after we had toiled in the heat with our bags to this café got into a bit of a strop with the guys who were going to buy their visas at the border – he wanted 25 dollars (it should only be twenty) and was throwing his arms in the air and shouting when they said “no thanks we’ll sort it out ourselves” – we were all then rammed in the back of this van which had a huge sack in the back – our “guide” not a happy bunny by this point was stressing and shouting loudly into his mobile phone which unfortunately I was sat right behind.

The countryside changed as we bumped our way into Cambodia – lots of dead trees everywhere – another dollar at the border (saving my extremely rubbish ones for these occasions) but a far nicer stamp – the guy looked a bit perplexed at my photo (taken 8 years ago) and made me take my hat off – 4 days of wild hair and as I’ve said my hair doesn’t travel well but he let me through.

The guys got their visas at the correct price – always the best way DIY – and then I got into an argument with this guy who wouldn’t take my bag off the roof of the van – with a big smile he said he would look after it – “no I’ll look after it and if I’m going on the van over there – it comes with me” he finally relented but it was getting to the point where I was going to climb on the roof and retrieve it myself.

Crammed into the back of this rather nice van I ended up sharing the seat with this Cambodian lady who suddenly appeared out of the ether – I really feel I should have got a discount as I had technically paid for one seat – one poor lad got the bit by the gear stick but it was a fairly good road to Stung Treng. Lots more dead trees not sure if the road was responsible – but it was nice to see travellers on bicycles – including one group mum, dad and little boy of about ten pedalling up the road - I think it had been Dad’s idea as mum seemed to be struggling a bit at the back– I think it’s great (not mum struggling) when I see that people of all ages are off seeing the world.

Arrived at the ferry port where posh van, car and crap truck all met up again – I don’t do guides well especially when they start stating the obvious – I knew the general idea was that we would get on the ferry to cross the Mekong but the guide and I’m not paranoid they always seem to go for me – maybe because I’m on my own – said “you get on ferry” – I did point out to him that I wasn’t going to vault over 10 foot of open Mekong with a rucksack on my back, I’d just rather wait until the guy had landed it first – they do bring out the worst in me but maybe it’s the being told what to do I have never been very good at.

Stung Treng much pratting about then ensued – our guide disappeared after promises of a air con van – and we ended up with the shed that had brought us up from the port – some guys were unhappy about the lack of aircon – I was just hoping for a seat – on the crap scale it was up there with Hangping’s tuk tuk but at least Hangping had a bit of pride in his – these guys and it should be noted there was a brand new van on the forecourt (which was probably used for photo purposes) full of guys fanning themselves lolling around like Kings of Sheba – obviously thought any old crap will do for the ones with the dollars.

Did a circuit of Stung Treng – picking up passengers and parcels who ended up on the roof – there was a Dutch guy going to Phnom Penh who was getting really aggravated with the pantomime – me I was glad I had booked to Kratie and had a window.

The road wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be – very dusty and under construction – it’ll be a superhighway in a couple of years – we did have the tourist tyre puncture and finally lumbered into Kratie round about half past six – I calculated the other passengers would be lucky to get to Phnom Penh by three in the morning - grabbed my bags and said goodbye to the Irish guys and a really nice German girl – the Dutch guy was having a real go at the van men pointing out the van’s failings and demanding names – it’s not often I make good decisions (cheers to the guy who wrote a piece on t’internet re Phnom Penh trip – that’s why I knew 8pm arrival time was iffy) and within ten minutes I was checked in at a really nice hotel – weird to find solid floor under my feet.

Headed off to try do the impossible – find Hair Conditioner with no words of Khmer – ended up having an argument with a nasty petulant girl in the internet café – the keyboard was rubbish as it had had drink poured over it – was driving me crackers – and then she wanted 2 dollars or 2.5 if I paid in rial – tried to point out that I hadn’t used a full hour – 2 dollars she screamed at me – at the end of the day it’s not a lot (and I was thinking has she got some big brothers out the back) so I paid after telling her I am not a walking ATM – sometimes you have to say something as the next person she will scream 3 dollars in her stamp her foot manner – I find it sad sometimes that you are not seen as a person just a wallet.

But not everyone is like that – the really sweet girl on reception gave me a whole page of Khmer – which I don’t think is a tonal language – she sorted out my bus ticket to Siem Riep (cheaper than if I had bought it on Don Det) though she did accost me leaving the hotel “where are you going?” “To buy hair conditioner” which left her totally perplexed – but I do find these phrasebooks are totally lacking in essential words which in my mind are “vegetarian” “ashtray” and “hair conditioner”, on health matters I can tell them I’ve got gastroenteritis and cancer but not I’ve got a cough – should write my own one of these days.